Calvi : citadelle de la Corse
While gazing at it from the peak of The Revellata, the city of Calvi as the capital of the Balagne does really make sense due to its fortifications.
Jutting from the walls, the vast ancient houses seem to guard the coasts The Phenician sailors and traders, might have used
the site as a shed since the 5th century before Christ. Yet, it was during the Genovian times(XVIIIth century) that the Citadel was built.
Unlike the town, which is very small,the beaches that spread along the Golf of Calvi stretch over kilometers and kilometers
And yet, it is a real pleasure to wander by the little streets and the stairs of the Citadel among oddy shaped houses but covered with light coloured crepi.
A little piece of advice : if not a train-goer, park outside the center of the city. It is safer. Then, your steps are likely to lead you to the little port where one will start instantaneously walking alond the quais which are the best view over the Citadel. The tower standing by itself, just in front of the walls , is the Tower of Salt ( La tour de Sel). It once used to be a warehouse, being first a fortification. From this tower, are the stairs that go up to the Citadel.
A city between beaches and remparts
Actually, the walls of the Citadel hide another city.Once you have stepped through the monumental gate, you are thrown back to the Genovian Governors' ancient palace, now a military barrack for the French army. Just opposite, stands the palace Giubega, the former house of the Archbishop of Sagone. In between, on the left, Saint Baptisit Church is worth seeing owing to its so called miraculous cricifix:
it is an ebony cross called The Black Christ or The Black Christ of Miracles. During the siege of Calvi by Marechal De Termes in 1555, the people of Cavil marched around the remparts and faced the enemy holding up the crucifix...and the siege came to an end.
Here in Cavi, people do not reject the marvellous. As a proof, we like to say that the man who discovered America was born here.
On the heights of the Citadel, a commemorative stone has been set close to ruins said to be the house where Christopher Columbus came to life.
It is true that he was Genovian just like Calvi. Alledgedly, he would have given Corsican names to fishes discovered in the Carribeans.
And why not, after all who knows? As for the house, it was blitzed away by English cannonballs during the 1779 siege.During this event, among the fearfulless English officers who assaulted the tower was Horatio Nelson. He lost an eye in this battle at Calvi.In the maze of the streets, another stone will appear to you alluding to Napoleon's stay in 1792 : Fleeing from Ajaccio where he had opposed to Paoli, the fighter for independance, and his pros, he had to seek refuge at a parent's before leaving Corsica and accomplish the destiny anyone knows.
Calvi is certainly not very large, but history will come upon you at the corner of any street or stairs.
Go down back to the city called the Marina.as opposed to the Citadel. As a help, try to locate the most extraordinary monument of Calvi Saint Marie Majeure steeple, made with pink and white crepi. This sharp tower was built in the XIXth century. The church, beautiful and in baroque style, stands between two small squares : Giudelli Square and Doctor Marchal square whose terraces compose an ideal view to observe the animated streets of Calvi in summertime.Besides it is a good passtime before catching the train back.
Forever faithful:
In 1278, Calvi's bourgeoisie,ecxeeded by the greedy of the lords of the north of Corsica, made willingly alledgence to Genova in seek of protection.
The latter does not ask for more.To show their trust, the city gave them privileges and retributions. The bargain was fair judging by the moto engraved at the top of the Citadel gate : Civitas Calvi Semper Fidelis (The city of Calvi forever faithful).As a matter of fact, untill the end of the XVIIIth century, when Corsica became part of France, never has Calvi betrayed its trust to the Republic of Genova.
